My mates and I ventured to Waimea Bay Beach Park for some hiking and surfing in hundreds of beach breaks. My heart soared with each kilometer along this magnificent shore from the bay beach to Banzai Pipeline. Yes, I had to try this surf with my moderate amount of experience; couldn’t leave the north shore without trying the pipe just once. Lots of chop but poisonously compelling nevertheless.
My soul renewed as this challenge was worth every bruise I am now wearing with pride. The energy in the waves, from thousands of miles away is infectious. No, I didn’t get much tube action because I keep my right foot far forward and my back to the wave. I learned to pop in this position and feel most comfortable here. I was able to snag three takeoffs holding securely in a crouch but slipping effortlessly down for a nice couple of rides. Being tall has some advantages but not for popping up here.
I can hear every note of the shore breaks (even on the ride back). These notes and this song, this place will stay with me, perhaps forever, as my days in this paradise are something I could not dream of. My connections with my mates are a soul to another soul; seeing hearts at last with much prayer. I can scarcely believe and I am infinitely grateful that God has given me the strength and health for this life.
I stopped questioning why I am compelled to move a thousand miles per hour with my hair on fire. I do wonder if I will be able to slow down enough to see everything; not in this life.